When Danny Meyer and Tom Colicchio opened Gramercy Tavern in New York City in July 1994, all eyes were on them. Was this going to be the next great restaurant? Thirty years later, Gramercy Tavern is still at the top of its game and its alumni have opened some of the best restaurants in the world.
Gramercy Tavern burns steadily and brightly, while so many others have faded into memory. The people who work there carry the torch.Lucy Simon is a New York-based wine, spirits, and food writer has been with Food & Wine since the spring of 2021.
Great is an admirable goal, but there can be something dauntingly monumental to that word, something carved in stone. Gramercy Tavern is a great American restaurant, no question, but a key part of that greatness is how over the years it has both changed and stayed the same. And that goes back to its people.Meyer and Colicchio first met at a fundraising event where Colicchio’s Sea Urchin and Crab Fondue snared the senses of the young restaurateur.
A wood-burning grill is at the heart of Gramercy Tavern, a feature since day one. It is an integral part of the approach to cooking that executive chef Michael Anthony has followed during his entire tenure there.Colicchio put word out that he was hiring. By his early 30s, he’d established a reputation as an intelligent, sharpshooter chef with perhaps a gruff demeanor but also respect for the people he worked alongside .
The litany of famous chefs who’ve worked here is long: Colicchio, Fleming, Anthony, and on and on. If you’re a restaurant scholar, you’ll know the impact of alumni like Marco Canora , Gregory Marchand , Keaka Lee , Howard Kalachnikoff , and many others. Front of house and beverages, too, like Juliette Pope, Steve Olson, Scott Reinhardt, and hundreds of others who envisioned and enacted bold new ways of delivering hospitality.
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