Salmon watch dials have been on trend, and with that a confusion has emerged about them. We get the facts down about salmon dials in our report.
How Rolex Became King: A Brief History of the World’s Most-Renowned Watchmaker, a whirlwind of recent marketing hype has strewn the facts about salmon watch dials into the algorithmic noise of the internet.
Patek Philippe Reference 130 from 1941 in a stainless steel case exemplifies an authentic gilded dial produced in the tradional manner of electroplating 3N gold to a metal dial.Salmon is a rather specific color, and there’s much confusion and disagreement about it. The exact color of any gilded dial is derived from the amount of copper added to the yellow gold that is electroplated to the dial.
Opaline art glass and a Cartier Tank with “Opaline Silvered Dial” . The slightly iridescent silvered dials were named after the milky art glass.The term “opaline dial” is confusing, because it suggests that the watch dial is made from this milky art glass, which it most certainly is not. Opaline is simply a description of the somewhat iridescent color achieved through electroplating dials with silver.
The problem with the term opaline, however is that it does a poor job of describing gold dials, which, due to their color, look nothing like opaline art glass. A gilded opaline dial simply takes its name from silvered opaline dials, even though the phrase “gilded opaline dial” makes little sense. So goes the often-odd naming conventions of horology.
Defying the serenity of the flat and unadorned salmon dial, the ever-audacious Audemars Piguet Ref. 26017PT.ZZ.1190PT.03 from 2003 uses the traditional technique over a highly complex dial and achieves interesting variations in gold color.Ever since the recent trend for salmon dials kicked into high gear, we’ve seen just about every watch brand release a so-called salmon dial. However, in only a handful of high-end watches are these dials authentic salmon dials as I’ve described them above.
Oris liberally calls the dial in this ProPilot X “salmon-dialed,” but the color is more cotton-candy pink and the caoting is textured paint. In person, this dial has none of the depth or iridescence of a proper gilded dial.
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