On a writing grant to the eternal city an Italian-born Australian encounters its two faces – the tourist’s fantasy and the residents’s reality
. Even before the virus dispersed the crowds, machine-gun toting soldiers and local police patrolled the Trevi and people swarmed like ants to honey, forbidden to emulate Ekberg. Seems such a minor constraint now that half the world is in lockdown.I see the Pope walking unencumbered on Via del Corso, a desolate figure, bodyguards three steps behind, in a street where until recently shoppers jostled for space on a footpath as narrow as an alpine track.
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