'Fife has long boasted an impressive natural larder, from its fertile fields and active fishing fleet, through to its foraged herbs and its abundant soft fruits' // robinmckelvie
‘I’VE worked all over the world, from Hong Kong to New York, and hand on heart this is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been,” smiles Sarah Cairns of Elie’s Ship Inn. As I sit in the beer garden peering over the golden sands, a pint of Elie Ale in hand as my youngest paddles happily below in the protected shallows, gannets circling high above, I see what she means.
First up all holidays need a great base and I’m back at my favourite East Neuk bolthole, Elie’s Ship Inn . This nautically themed, New England-style inn is supremely cosy with only half a dozen rooms. Four sport sea views – I recommend splashing out for the largest, Admiral Nelson, with its rolltop bath and bay windows gazing grandly out over Elie Bay.
Back to that food now. Fife has long boasted an impressive natural larder, from its fertile fields and active fishing fleet, through to its foraged herbs and its abundant soft fruits. Mercifully it’s no longer all spirited away as Billy Boyter’s stellar Michelin starred Cellar in Anstruther and Geoffrey Smeddle’s similarly starred Peat Inn testify to.
I end my trip alone, which gives me time and space to appreciate the big skies and diving gannets as I head east from Elie on the Fife Coastal Path. This is the toughest stretch of the entire trail tackling the notorious “Chain Walk”.
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