An exhibition at Drexel reveals the appeal of Mary McFadden’s fantastical yet body- and movement-friendly designs.
Whether you call it a cult or a coterie, there are a good number of Vogue editors who are crazy about vintage Mary McFadden dresses. A number of these, donated by the designer herself, are now on exhibit at Drexel University, where “Modern Ritual: The Art of Mary McFadden” opened earlier this month. The Philadelphia retrospective justified a dive into the archive. It’s fair to say that McFadden has long been a Vogue favorite.
She has no fear and little vanity,” noted the writer of a 1968 Vogue profile. ‘Not only no fear but colossal nerve,’ said friend. ‘She is the person she is creating. Nothing bothers her. She hasn’t the highest sensibilities, does the most outrageous things, and doesn’t comprehend why you’re shocked. Then you realize you’re shocked because you’re conventional, and she’s not; and it doesn’t make her the coziest person in the world; but then, she doesn’t want to be.
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