Observer Food Monthly joins the restaurant’s gentlemen hedonists, Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver in France, on their way to the ‘best bar in the world’• Recipes from the new St John book
One Friday afternoon early this summer I drove down from Toulouse to a village called Homps, east of Carcassonne, parked in a narrow, cobbled lane in the hot sun and wandered across a shaded square into the cool kitchen of a house beside the Canal du Midi. That afternoon, the house had become an outpost of London’s most distinctive and influential restaurant, St John.
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