After a week of exploring Qatar's sterile World Cup, I've finally found its heart and soul

After a week of exploring Qatar's sterile World Cup, I've finally found its heart and soul The ancient Souq Waqif marketplace is an antitode to the overly new, shiny Doha city and a place where the World Cup feels truly alive 🟢 samcunningham

Not so at Souq Waqif, the giant marketplace a short stroll from the Msheireb Metro station on the Green Line, where fans from all over the world mingle in a friendly atmosphere full of families.

Male fans from all over were queuing up at stalls to be fitted with a gutra – the loose headdress in red and white, or white, folded and placed on a white cap and held in place by an agal – a stretchy black rope – which will set the buyer back around 50 riyals – £11.

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