In a year when Marcus Wareing, Michel Roux Jr and Monica Galetti have closed restaurants amid a downturn for hospitality, Jason Atherton is opening five. So what's his secret?
Jason Atherton is not getting much sleep. Hardly a week has gone by this year without another big-name chef closing a restaurant amid rising costs, staff shortages and a sense the public isn't willing to blow out on high-end food the way they used to. Marco Pierre White, Michel Roux Jr, Marcus Wareing, Monica Galetti, Simon Rimmer and Tom Brown have all announced closures, and yet it is openings that are keeping Atherton awake. Five of them, all in London, in as many months.
'Because there are a lot of opportunities out there, people know if they're not really enjoying it, rather than sticking with it like we did in the old days, they can leave the next day and get another job the following day. I call it the social media attention span.' He's aware how this might sound - an elder statesman of the industry bemoaning the generations that followed - but his view of Gen Z is more rounded.
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