Bora Aksu Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
In late 2023, Bora Aksu embarked on a creative pilgrimage to Eva Hesse’s birthplace in Hamburg. The designer had become fascinated by portraits of the artist in her New York studio—draped in dust sheets and lying supine beneath her own tendrilous creations—during the height of her productivity in the 1960s. He recalls standing outside her childhood home and the “eerie” feeling that soon took hold.
The collection, shown this afternoon in a light-dappled exhibition space in the Hellenic Centre in Marylebone, was a show-and-tell of everything Aksu discovered down there. Mohair lace dresses had been constructed with a mille-feuille of iridescent underskirts to evoke Hesse’s experiments in latex, while blouson-sleeve minidresses and jackets called to mind the painterly shirts she would sculpt in.
If the designer cast Hesse as this season’s protagonist—much like the outsider artist Henry Darger and Canadian watercolorist Marcel Dzama of his previous collections—she would later take on the role of spirit guide when his mother tragically passed away mid-collection. Hesse was just two years old when she emigrated to the United States, and her work took a dramatic turn towards the poetic when she returned to Germany in 1965 to face the familial wounds the Holocaust had left behind.
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