Ruby Tandoh on how buckwheat became one of her go-to ingredients for baking.
After that, I spent a lot of time looking for buckwheat. Any time I found it in the urban wild, whether a bag of Bob’s Red Mill or buckwheat-infused crème brûlée, I felt like I’d won some private bet. Over time, loving buckwheat became one of my ornamental personality traits, along with not having yet watched “The Sopranos” and being obsessed with lute-forward sixteenth-century music. Buckwheat, likely a combination of the Dutch words for beech and wheat, is related to neither.
Increasingly, I want to slip buckwheat into everything, though it has occasionally punished my enthusiasm: it has no gluten, which means it doesn’t have the elastic, lissom potential that wheat does. Too much buckwheat and things won’t rise—a loaf cake will end up with the funk and density of a cuboid Scandinavian rye. The smartest deployment, rather, is with dairy. In this case you need the whole buckwheat groats.
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