Bust, Boucher and Black Monday: Vivienne Westwood’s Contrary Corset

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Bust, Boucher and Black Monday: Vivienne Westwood’s Contrary Corset
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Westwood’s 1990 corset clashed prurient traditional dress with provocative sexuality

“Some years ago I wanted to do a collection where I would try to put together a range of fabrics so rich in scope that it would live up to all the different qualities and richness of texture seen in oil paintings. From linen, to lace; tweeds to velvet.

“When I arranged these fabrics, there was still something missing: somehow, the paintings themselves. I included a piece of painter’s canvas; and then I knew I just had to have a photographic print of a painting. I chose the most decorative painter – Boucher – and the most typical Boucher painting in the Wallace is for me the. I just love the ribbon tied in a bow around the sheep’s neck… I wanted her to look as if she’d just stepped out of a painting.

Which is how, in March 1990, under the gilded ceilings and Regency chandeliers of the Institute of Directors and under the cloud of an ongoing worldwide recession, Westwood unveiled a collection she called. It was inspired by the grandeur of 18th-century oil painting, shown in a room surrounded by some of the Crown Estate’s finest examples. In the face of crashed markets and crunched credit, its luxury was near-ludicrous, almost obscene. It caused a sensation.

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