‘But you hated these clothes!’ The complicated history of ‘lesbian fashion’

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‘But you hated these clothes!’ The complicated history of ‘lesbian fashion’
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From a 17th century Swedish queen to drag king Stormé DeLarverie, a new book charts the myriad styles of women-loving women through the ages

From a 17th century Swedish queen to drag king Stormé DeLarverie, a new book charts the myriad styles of women-loving women through the ages

She takes the example of Christina, Queen of Sweden in the 17th century. While Christina’s sexuality remains ambiguous, there is evidence she felt romantically towards women. Her clothing choices still speak to some lesbians today, Medhurst included, in the way that she toyed with stereotypes. “She would play with gender through her self-presentation,” says Medhurst.

It comes at a time when “lesbian fashion” is bursting back into the mainstream. That fashion is as diverse as the lesbian community itself, but one definition might be clothing stereotypically worn or inspired by lesbians, which has often broken gendered expectations. In May, Kristen Stewart, who Medhurst describes as “a figurehead of 2020s lesbian-chic”, delivered tank tops and sports brasLove Lies Bleeding.

The whole concept of “lesbian chic feels frustrating for some lesbians”, says Medhurst, “because the clothes that they have been wearing have been seen as being unfashionable, and anti-fashion, and ugly. Now, suddenly, they’re great and they’re fine. So there’s that element of it being like: ‘Oh, but you hated these clothes!’” Some remain critical of seeing stereotypical accessories – from carabiners to practical footwear – in the mainstream, while others embrace it.

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