Can the New Look ever escape the patriarchy?

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Can the New Look ever escape the patriarchy?
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Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri brings her powerful vision to Brooklyn.

Can the New Look ever escape the patriarchy? Even Dietrich seemed to be drawn to it for nostalgic meaning. “It wasn’t really a New Look at all, but rather the last gasp of a vanishing female who had held sway in the western world for four hundred years,” Marian Folwer wrote in her book “The Way She Looks Tonight.” “Dior’s New Look was the Last Look at really ladylike clothes before mods, minis, almost-naked full-frontal fashions and other aberrations took over.

Power is not a word that sits easily with Chiuri. Now she sits at the head of an atelier that can make an exquisite dress in a matter of hours. Does it make her feel powerful? “Powerful, no,” she said patly. “It’s normal.” More than power, she said, she knows the right people. She has worked with Swali’s business since 1992, for example, and knows the Italian factories in and out, and now, since working with Dior, the French ones, too. “It’s about the relationship,” she said.

Some folks look to fashion to do the impossible, though, and they carp that Chiuri’s designs are too boring. They’re actually very beautiful in person, and on buyers — excuse me,. But they are emblematic of a time when designers push things forward not with ideas, but statements. The most intriguing clothes in the show were not the Dietrich-does-Dior looks, but dresses and sultry men’s pajamas at the end covered in spangles and fringes, dancing under the runway lights, that emphasized the shoulders and a narrow hip.

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