“We really wanted to go back to those Bulgarian roots for our first show,” Emma Chopova told Vogue ahead of the brand’s London Fashion Week debut.
In a white-walled studio space in Deptford, South London, two days before Chopova Lowena’s debut show at London Fashion Week, a tiny grey and black speckled pug named Jello sits peacefully amongst the clothing rails. They’re brimming with a profusion of prismatic, reach-out-and-touch pieces, crafted from ruffles of fil coupé, dense fairytale tapestry, glittering tinsel and floral motif denim.
“When we started out, we couldn’t imagine ever being able to afford a show,” says Chopova, who was born in Sofia, Bulgaria, and moved to New Jersey when she was seven. Subverting the traditional path of starting out on the London runway, the brand’s designs – including its signature pleated kilt, now adored by the likes of Olivia Rodrigo, Dua Lipa and Bella Hadid – were snapped up by Matchesfashion.com shortly after they graduated, and swiftly sold out.
Community is key to the brand’s show debut, for which the designers put together an entirely street cast gang of models, all friends of the label. Among them: Mahoro Seward,magazine’s fashion features editor, Georgina Kemball, the London jeweller who collaborated on the brand’s spring/summer 2021 collection, Lowena-Irons’s brother Harvey, and fashion designer Louise Gray. “We want everyone to channel a competitive fast walk,” Chopova says at the preview.
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