US brand’s British designer abandons ‘strict perfection’ for a more sustainable, carefree collection
he luxury fashion industry has earned a reputation for championing a polished and slick aesthetic. But according to Stuart Vevers, the British designer and creative director of the US brand Coach, the pursuit of perfectionism is over.on Monday, Vevers said he wanted to “propose an idea of luxury that is personal rather than perfect. Perfection doesn’t create desire. Something that is loved and worn has more appeal than something that is perfect and precise.
The brand took over a section of the High Line, New York’s public park built on a former freight rail line. The catwalk wove around the Swiss artist Pamela Rosenkranz’s Old Tree, a 7.6-metre sprawling sapling sculpture with scarlet branches, while glass skyscrapers shimmered in the background.The packed front row included the actors Charles Melton and Storm Reid and the NBA player Jayson Tatum, while a pulsing soundtrack competed with taxi horns from the traffic below.
He said: “I’m really fascinated with how the next generation is discovering American classics. They are looking at them through fresh eyes. I’ve really been studying that. What is it about that appeals?” Vevers took pre-existing chinos and spliced them together to create a baggy silhouette inspired by skateboarders. The seams were left raw and exposed. Blazers were supersized and unlined. Meanwhile, T-shirts revamped the “I heart NY” design that has become a tourist staple. Coach’s versions feature beaded hearts and pen-scribbled text. Ella Emhoff, the 25-year-old artist and stepdaughter of Kamala Harris, modelled in the show and wore hers with a short leather miniskirt and baseball cap.
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