Courrèges Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
Between the sound of a woman’s breathing, a white, tensile installation that responded, swelled, rose and fell with it, and the slits of the low center-front pockets which every model had one hand tucked into—well! Nicolas di Felice was so clearly talking about the pleasures of sex and fashion at his Courrèges show that his audience was left open-mouthed. “I wanted to work around intimacy,” the designer said. “Something sensual and sensitive. Trying to reconnect with emotion, in a way.
“Wrapping, enveloping you for protection” was the way Di Felice put it. “It’s simple: I started with a scarf, wrapping and draping it around the body.” The canon of Courrèges is technically graphic and angular—but also a bit weird, when selectively viewed through Di Felice’s 21st century eyes. He had Courrèges’s space-balaclavas on his inspiration board—a short way from an image from the 1980s London underground latex fetish club Atomage.
Pockets aside, the difference is in the discipline he applies to the scarf-derived wrap-and-buckle detail of trench coats and leather jacket collars, to ‘Blindfold’ sunglasses, to slick, stretch thigh-boots and shoes made of body contouring corn-starch latex-substitute. Yes, he cuts a mean party dress—this season’s spiraling cuts give the wearer options to expose this or that, by taking off a sleeve wrapping it over her shoulder, baring her flank or back; whatever.
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