The award-winning designer certainly rose to expectations BottegaVeneta
It was also his most personal, Lee said backstage. As a teenager, the designer had been fascinated by dance; here, the fluidity of that medium became the collection’s central force. Left behind was that tough, sometimes rigid, feeling of earlier collections , replaced with something altogether more sinuous: there were elongated overcoats and tailored blazers, narrow trousers, in stretch fabric, sliced into a flare at the ankle.
The idea of movement – key to the collection, Lee said – was suggested in the proliferance of tassels, which swung from fringed hems of dresses, and later long, ground-skimming shearling overcoats . More literally, a motif of leaping figures decorated crochet knitwear for women and men. Glittering pailettes, meanwhile – across draped dresses, which were given shape via a series of drawstring fastenings, or flared trousers – had a disco energy.
There is little doubt that these composite elements will prove enticing for the already Bottega-clad front row. After all, this is Lee’s particular strength: his runway shows not only sell fantasy, but ignite a more singular desire, for the individual accessories and garments he creates. With this collection, he did so with new ease. It was a statement of intent and ambition: there is plenty more to be seen from the young creative director, who is certainly not going anywhere fast.
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