Whichever way you go, things tend to work out just grand in Ireland.
After a childhood spent being regaled by tales of Ireland by my Irish grandfather, I’ve long felt a connection to the Emerald Isle with each and every one of my visits deepening my interest and endearment to it.
Whichever way you go, things tend to work out just grand in Ireland – a sensation enhanced when you’re nursing a pint of Guinness or an Irish coffee as a live band fuels thethe Irish word for fun, chat or entertainment, that you’ll hear, and feel, throughout your trip. We’re staying in the city’s leafy Southside, a stroll from the desirable seaside suburb of Sandymount, a key location ina novel by lauded Dublin writer James Joyce. Across from Sandymount’s beachfront promenade, I see Joyce’s old home, which last year went on the market for €2.15 million .
Waterford is known for its crystal production and some of our group take a factory tour. But the city’s street art dazzles me more. There are super-sized contemporary murals and a 23-metre sword, hand-crafted from a fallen fir tree, engraved with episodes of Viking heritage. Imprisoned and sent to Van Diemen’s Land after rebelling against British rule in Ireland, he escaped, relocating to New York and fighting in the American Civil War. His disappearance – and presumed death – in Montana is still cloaked in mystery.Talking of far-fetched tales, have you heard the one about the Blarney Stone? Embedded in the tower of a semi-ruined fortress outside Cork, it’s said to possess supernatural powers, imparting eloquence to those who kiss it.
Over-crowded ships also carried Irish across the Atlantic Ocean. Its blue blanket steals our collective gaze on the Wild Atlantic Way, a 2600-kilometre touring route that we follow, on and off, along Ireland’s west coast. There are laughs aplenty later at Knappogue Castle, a restored AD1467 pile hosting medieval banquet shows by performers in flamboyant period costumes.-like setting, with clannish banners draped by long, candlelit wooden tables, we sip mead and wine, tuck into dishes like chicken in red-wine sauce and watch lighthearted takes on Irish myths, ancient kings and fair maidens.
The bucolic scenery endures as we cross the unmanned border into Northern Ireland. If it wasn’t for the road signs’ different typeface and colours, you wouldn’t immediately realise you were in another country, though other changes – twangs, distances currency and flags – become apparent later. Dennis demonstrates his craft on a hand loom, then we check out his store’s tweed jackets, waistcoats, scarves, flat caps and sweaters.
“Like New York, our city is so good they named us twice,” jokes guide Pete, leading us along the 1.5 kilometre-long stone fortifications. “Call us what you want actually. We’re not interested in semantics. We’re interested in peace. And it’s been phenomenal.
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