The Dutch couturier debuted her mesmerizing “off-body sculptures” during Haute Couture Week in Paris.
has accelerated technology’s integration into high fashion. While the Dutch couturier—known for her ethereal, kinetic creations—has always been ahead of the curve, she’s learned the value in pumping the brakes. “After doing runway shows for 17 years, I noticed that the speed was actually slowing me down. There’s no time to explore a new chapter,” van Herpen tells.
Van Herpen’s fall 2024 couture “Hybrid” presentation-meets-installation powerfully embodies the designer’s reverence for nature, both as an eternal muse and a vital source of life. The sculpture, for example—algae-like in composition with coral-like 3D-printed structures dusted in sand—encapsulates van Herpen’s connection to water and the origin of our senses. , a sculpture composed of spiraling pleated silk curves, captures van Herpen’s perception of time being stretched when she is outdoors.
These feats of construction, made possible by van Herpen’s proprietary tulle fabric, are the ultimate balletic metaphor: a beautiful illusion. “The more three dimensional you go off the tulle, the harder it is to make the fragments float,” she says, adding that oil paint, although heavy, was the only paint that would allow her to sculpt. That gravity-defying quality is what van Herpen does best, as seen in the latest collection’s transparent Ataraxy gown, sculpted with a heat gun.
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