On a summer’s evening I step from the blazing sunshine of Stockbridge’s Hamilton Place into the cool hush of eórna. There’s a handsome curved…
On a summer’s evening I step from the blazing sunshine of Stockbridge’s Hamilton Place into the cool hush of eórna. There’s a handsome curved marble bar and twelve tall chairs, all with a direct view of the kitchen. The colour palate is moody dark blues and slate greys, surfaces are tactile, and every elegant detail has been carefully considered.
Our champagne aperitif is contrasted with the 2015 single vintage from the same vineyard to begin the formal pairings. The 2015 is rounder, richer and toastier. “We always used to start with smoked salmon and champagne at Number One ,” says Montgomery, “it’s a nod to our history”. Tomatoes with basil and pickled raspberries are a refreshing next course, topped with a raspberry sorbet and a garnish of fennel fronds. I like the pairing of tomatoes and raspberries, but for me the chill of the sorbet is more distraction than enhancement. I’m far more enamoured by the wine, a buttery ‘Rooidraai’ 2021 Chenin Blanc from Swartland, South Africa.
A honeyed Sauternes Lions de Suduiraut 2018 pairs with the sweet courses. It’s delicious, with hints of ginger and orange.
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