The restaurant of an events venue proves that great modern British cooking is as good as any show, says Jay Rayner
The crispy pig’s cheek with watercress was merely the highlight of a hugely cheering meal at, the restaurant of a major new arts venue in London’s Hackney. I don’t know what the capital H is about, and I don’t care. They can call themselves Hairy Baboon’s Arse for all I care, as long as they carry on serving their big muscular dishes, at these prices. The restaurant occupies a broad, hard-edged space, made more intimate come evening by low illumination and the gutter of tea lights.
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