In a space that harked back to the YSL couture salons, Anthony Vaccarello presented his Winter 2023 collection for the house. Seduction was key to this Saint Laurent show, writes Alexander Fury
Can we say the clothes were the same as back under Yves? Well, yes and no. They echoed Saint Laurent’s favoured shapes, his strong-shouldered tailored jackets, his slender knee-length skirts with slits, his easy sleeveless tops, the heavy jewellery designed by Loulou de la Falaise, the whole lot best when worn by Catherine Deneuve. That these new clothes, fresh iterations of a slither of the Saint Laurent canon, were remarkable is indisputable.
Seduction was key, to this Saint Laurent show. It’s also, possibly, the most difficult thing to harness as a designer and to describe as a journalist.
Vaccarello’s absolute clarity of vision is what is truly remarkable about his Saint Laurent – his focus, his drive and his passion for making women look beautiful. It isn’t about marketing and it isn’t about merchandising. It’s about beauty and it’s about love. There’s nothing more Saint Laurent than that.
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