Jill Turton traces 140 years of Leeds’s food history as she finallychecks out the Empire Cafe following its transformation from the coffee bar and greasy spoon scene.
Sometimes, and because Yorkshire is our patch, we are contacted by restaurant reviewers on the national papers looking for a recommendation or to verify a place before they leap on the LNER and brave the frozen North. But not this time. Jay Rayner, of The Observer, who to be fair, frequently comes to Leeds, his alma mater, wrote a glowing review of the Empire Café.
Rather than dangle from a bar stool, three of us head downstairs to a black windowless room, and if that sounds gloomy, it really is not. The walls are full of vibrant Egon Schiele prints, each table has its downlight. It’s compact but cosy and very inviting. The menu is divided into two halves. Those spit-roast chickens – half or whole are given a herby rub and a choice of ‘lather’ which might be yuzu and ginger or smoked garlic and honey. We played safe with garlic, lemon and tarragon.
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