Come a little early and Pazzo Pastaria might appear like just another San Antonio mom-and-pop Italian eatery struggling to make it.
The neighborhood eatery opened in 2023 to considerable fanfare, including a Current Best Of San Antonio win for Best New Restaurant. On our first visit, around 5 p.m. on a Wednesday, the place was bare, save for a pair of diners at a small table in the corner.About half an hour into our meal, the reason behind her inquiry became obvious. By the time our entrees arrived, the dining room was a hub of energy. Boisterous families filled every table and waitstaff buzzed around the dining room.
Speaking of sauces, celebrity chef Jason Dady’s bolognese has long stood out as the city’s best. Pazzo Pastaria’s iteration knocked Dady’s off the pedestal. The savory meat-based sauce, a staple in Italian cuisine, typically features ground beef, veal or pork, finely diced celery, carrot and onion, tomato paste, wine and a touch of milk. Pazzo chef Sean Archer also adds sliced mushrooms and luscious dollops of mascarpone cheese. Served over handmade spaghetti, his is now the version to beat.
The fettuccine della casa, which featured a creamy red chili-infused Alfredo sauce, loaded with pancetta and prosciutto — two kinds of oh-so-tasty cured pork — along with roasted mushrooms, and green peas proved similarly satisfying. We added grilled shrimp, because why not. In all, the dish was a delightful departure from other, less complicated Alfredo-based dishes we’ve had recently. Be warned, though: the portion is big enough for two to three meals.
Pazzo clearly puts considerable care into its food, and the same was clear about the service, which was attentive without being smothering. Staff members seemed to have ample practice reading their tables and delivering just the amount of attention needed.
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