A guided expedition helps to demystify this complex and fascinating part of the world.
A few days into our tour of Israel, the rocket attacks begin. Palestinian militants in Gaza fire hundreds of rockets up the west coast, reaching as far as Tel Aviv.
“We are a mosaic, not an oil painting,” our Israeli guide, Sharon, explains. “We work together, but everyone goes home to their own village at night.” Sharon is himself an unusual combination: German-born, Catholic-raised, he converted to Judaism, learnt Hebrew and lives in a secular kibbutz with his gay partner.He is also a gifted storyteller. The same day we feel besieged by rockets, we visit Masada, a hallowed place associated with the centuries-old drive to create and defend a Jewish state.
The next day, our guide gives us a safety briefing about what to do in the event of a closer rocket attack: find the nearest building and head to the shelter in the stairwell; if outside, find the nearest wall, car or rock to shelter next to. We’re informed that our itinerary has changed due to the euphemistic “situation”: we will not be visiting Israel’s commercial capital, Tel Aviv because the rockets are still reaching there.
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