The designer took over the Tate Modern to debut his first pre-season collection.
Inside London’s Tate Modern with its iconic spiral of concrete stairs, models from Gucci’s Cruise 2025 show ascended toward guests wearing a collection anchored in the duality and practicality of romanticism. Think: geek chic glasses, simple cape coats, pussy bow blouses in sheer rippling textures, suede shift dresses and big matching bags.
The presentation marked the debut of the first pre-season collection from Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno who opened the show notes with “We’ll always have London.
Baggy jeans affirmed the lasting power of big silhouettes in fashion, while white sheer textural dresses with long, messy hair represented an overwhelming boho-coded message. If De Sarno’s previous two collections swayed more toward wearability, there were several pieces here that put meticulous maximalist handcraft on full display. Embellished pieces with beading that looked like glass and swayed like magic were breathtaking.
Gucci’s new signature under De Sarno might just be those very particular, boxy leather coats that have a very specific stylized look. Little gray skirt suits, oversized white coats, pants with built-in liquid fringe, and tight little pinafores in gray and palest pink spoke to the utilitarian practicality of the collection. Taking things a step further, De Sarno integrated a bit of London style into the collection.
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