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Gregg Wallace: The British Miracle Meat explores a world in which lab-grown human meat solves our cost of living crisis
The planet’s on fire. No one can afford eggs, or to turn the lights on. Don’t worry – here’s a discordantly cheerful primetime TV investigation, the kind of thing you’ve seen a million times before.about the cost of living crisis and engineered meat, hit all the beats you’d expect from Channel 4 at 8:30pm on a Monday – “
[are] rising at the fastest rate in 40 years!” he shouted jauntily – until it didn’t. “Now, a new line of affordable protein is hitting our shelves: engineered human meat.”never broke from its blandly jocular tone: hard to imagine a more striking dissonance between medium – middling weeknight info-dump, calibrated to lull its viewer into a kind of torpor – and message .
The program surveyed the conditions that might lead members of an immiserated public to sell parts of their bodies – “with the money from her donation, Gillian will be able to pay for nearlyof energy bills!” – as well as wheeling out chef Michel Roux Jr to subject the human steaks to taste testing. Wallace and Roux mused how someone’s lifestyle and emotional state might affect the taste of their meat , sampling NHS nurse Alison and Guy, a former social care worker whose recent redundancy had made his meat fattier and more tender . Trying a mysterious premium product – still in development, its specifics under wraps – the duo agreed on its superior taste and texture. What could it be? Ask Jonathan Swift.
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