The cookbook author shares the easiest way to clean the octopus of vegetables and shares a slow but simple side dish slathered in cheat’s bechamel
ne of the stranger sessions in a film theory class I took at university was analysing David Lynch’s Eraserhead, an experimental horror film in which the protagonist is plagued by a bulbous baby-like blob . Every time I see a celeriac bulb, I’m reminded of that film – bulbous-baby-blob and wild hair combined.
Celeriac is tricky to wash. Those gnarly root tendrils twist and turn into themselves, trapping dirt in the most dastardly of ways.Don’t be too perturbed if all the leaves have been lopped off, as long as the flesh seems firm; it’s usually more a case of an overzealous greengrocer than a bad bulb. Roasting the bulb together with its leaves does amplify its flavour, though, so if you can find one with leaves intact, go for that option.
When it comes to barriers to celeriac consumption, the biggest is how tricky it is to wash. Those gnarly root tendrils twist and turn into themselves, trapping dirt in the most dastardly of ways. If you go down the conventional route – root? – of trimming these off, you risk lopping off a third of the bulb along with them.
The cheat’s béchamel, using crème fraiche or sour cream mixed with cheese and butter, is as easy as layering – no need to stir – and it works a treat in lasagne, too! If celeriac is not forthcoming, but kohlrabi is at hand, give this same method a whirl.½ cup crème fraicheSet an oven rack in the middle of the oven and place a foil-lined baking tray underneath. Preheat the oven to 220C conventional . Combine the salt and 2 cups of just-boiled water in a large bowl.
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