For more than three decades, Black chefs in Los Angeles have been making the taco their own, turning it into a staple of California soul cuisine.
One day when she was 12 years old, Barbara “Sky” Burrell, owner of Sky’s Gourmet Tacos on Pico Boulevard, saw a neon, taco-shaped sign in the window of a local restaurant in the town where she grew up. The glowing image, in Waukegan, Ill., outside Chicago, captured her curiosity. She begged her mom to take her for a visit. All these years later, Burrell remembers every detail of that taco. “It was horrible,” she says, laughing.
The budding entrepreneur befriended the family and staff, picking up tips and recipes along the way. After opening a couple of small taco-focused chains in the Inland Empire and Long Beach, Bell opened the first Taco Bell in Downey in 1962. Mitla Cafe is still open in its original location.
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