I use Lanzarote’s volcanos to make fine wine – ash is the secret ingredient

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I use Lanzarote’s volcanos to make fine wine – ash is the secret ingredient
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Volcanic eruptions could have spelt disaster for wine-makers on the Spanish island. Instead they turned them to their advantage

Inland, the jet-black terrain is broken up only by a series of indents as if a giant had pressed their thumb into the soil.. It bears the nickname “Volcano Island” for good reason – the 300 lava spewers dotted around the stretch of land that’s better known for all-year-round holidays than its wines.A series of eruptions, which started in 1730, changed life on the island for ever. They wrought chaos, covering almost a quarter of the island in lava.

“This tragedy became an advantage,” she says. “There is only 150mm of rainfall every year. Normally you need 300mm. But from this adversity came good fortune. The winemakers looked for the fertile soil and put the plants there.” “The picón preserves the water well and it is also a heat regulator,” says Ms Ludeña. “There is humidity, thanks to the picón. We have very big changes in temperature from 26A top-of-the-range wine, El Grifo sells for up to £32.99 per bottle in the UK. The winery produces red and whites, called Volcanic Malvasia, Listán Negro, Listán Blanco, Vijariego and Moscatel. Most of its bottles are sold in Spain but it is expanding to Europe and the US.

She says there were up to 900 vines in each hectare, a fraction of the number in a bodega in mainland Spain or France, where there are normally 3,000 vines in the same area.

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