From Europe's northernmost airport, you can explore a landscape free from light pollution but - hopefully - alive with dancing Aurora
is that they can be unpredictable at the best of times. Temperamental, even. I’d prepared myself mentally for waking up at 3am to get a glimpse. But halfway through some reindeer tartare and a
One of Europe’s last great wildernesses, Lapland – Finland’s northernmost and largest region – is cold, dark, and can seemDespite living in the Nordics for many years, I had never seen the Northern Lights. Not really anyway. But heading this far north when the sun is reaching the peak of its 11-year solar cycle –– I was feeling lucky.
From the museum, we went for a walk along the banks of Lake Inari. As the third largest lake in Finland, a country with more than 180,000, it is a breathtaking sight. On is shores is the striking, timber Sámi Parliament, which offers visitors anThen it was time to cook lunch at a nearby river. The late autumn sun provided some unexpected warmth against the cool breeze swaying the pine trees around us.
With our guides Jari and Jerome, we prepared a lunch of creamy trout soup over a roaring open fire. The publicly maintained rest stop has a supply of free firewood for all visitors, many of whom stophot drinks. The water in the river is so pure that we filled our bottles and used it to cook. I could understand why Finland is consistently ranked one of the world’s happiest nations.
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