Newly minted Michelin-starred chef Arturo Rivera Martínez stood over an insanely hot grill Wednesday at the first Mexican taco stand ever to get a coveted star from the French dining guide, and did…
Newly minted Michelin-starred chef Arturo Rivera Martínez hands a customer his order of tacos at the Tacos El Califa de León taco stand, in Mexico City, Wednesday, May 15, 2024. Tacos El Califa de León is the first ever taco stand to receive a Michelin star from the French dining guide.
An overhead view of the Tacos El Califa de León taco stand, in Mexico City, Wednesday, May 15, 2024. Tacos El Califa de León is the first ever taco stand to receive a Michelin star from the French dining guide. Customers line up to order at the Tacos El Califa de León taco stand, in Mexico City, Wednesday, May 15, 2024. Tacos El Califa de León is the first ever taco stand to receive a Michelin star from the French dining guide.
At Mexico City’s Tacos El Califa de León, there are only four things on the menu, all tacos, and all of which came from a cow’s rib, loin or fore shank. The other half is packed with standing customers clutching plastic plates and ladling salsa, and the female assistant who rolls out the rounds of tortilla dough constantly.
After less than a minute — he won’t say exactly how long because “that’s a secret” — he flips the beef over with a spatula, flips the tortilla, and very quickly scoops the cooked, fresh tortilla onto a plastic plate, places the beef on top and calls out the customer’s name who ordered it. The prices are quite high by Mexican standards. A single, generous but not huge taco costs nearly $5. But many customers are convinced it’s the best, if not the cheapest, in the city.
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