The pandemic made change New Yorkers to more of an early dinner crowd, but the city is coming back to life for night owl diners.
On the first warm night of spring, around 11 p.m., the dining room at Blue Ribbon Brasserie sat mostly empty. And it didn’t bother me a bit, since I had coupe filled with shrimp cocktail, a flute brimming with crémant, and half a fried chicken set before me.
During the pandemic, New York lost its late-night edge. Lots of cooks and creatives left the city, at least in the thick of lockdowns. The kids took their parties underground, and everyone else had little reason to venture out after sunset. “People just got so used to having nothing to do in the evening. It’s like everything sort of shifted in some Twilight Zone,” Bromberg says.Even as the city yawned back to life, restaurants maintained a conservative curfew.
Eyal Shani and Shahar Segal brought Tel Aviv’s Port Sa’id to downtown New York last summer. Rotating DJs mix vinyl from a stage until the wee hours, a disco ball hangs overhead, and the kitchen sends out fresh, cravable Mediterranean dishes, dips upon dips, and fortifying hunks of challah. It’s not quite a night club, nor exclusively a restaurant, but most definitely a scene. Plan on dancing, even if it’s just in your seat. “We come from a different culture,” says Segal.
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