Isamaya Ffrench’s Debut Make-Up Collection Is Here

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Isamaya Ffrench’s Debut Make-Up Collection Is Here
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As make-up phenom Isamaya Ffrench launches her debut collection, Anders Christian Madsen uncovers her vision for the future of beauty.

is the physical embodiment of those values. An eyeshadow palette of “industrial” colours in putty textures – moody, inky shades interrupted by hazardous bright green and orange – is encased in a black compact with a ghostly torso pressed through its lid. It evokes the grammar of bondage similarly conveyed in the cap of the Rubberlash mascara – which has an instant stretch effect – impaled by a hard metal piercing.

She spent her teenage years in Cambridge obsessing over the late make-up pioneer Kevyn Aucoin’s radical book Making Faces from 1994. “When I work with Cher, she always tells me about how big his hands were, and how he could just put these fake lashes on using his fingers,” she says, referring to one in a celebrity clientele that also includes Madonna. “It’s often a little bit of a lesson for me working with them. Cher and Madonna, they probably know more than you do – about everything.

One is her boss at Burberry, Riccardo Tisci, whose minimal-maximal approach to make-up has taught her the “fresher” beauty of an un-contoured face. “Isamaya has such authentic creativity. She isn’t afraid to push boundaries and does so with such a youthful, modern lens. For me, it’s this attitude that works so well with my vision and identity at Burberry,” Tisci says.

She credits photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott with her fashion upbringing: “It feels like you’re learning something new when you work with them, which you can’t say about everybody else.” Vivienne Westwood, Ffrench says, “can sit on the podium with Cher and Madonna”. And Junya Watanabe is a dream client: “Often, I’m not allowed to see the collection while I’m coming up with ideas. He’ll send me words and inspiration. It’s all about solving a riddle.

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