If someone suggested pink wine for dinner, I’d baulk – were we at a hen party? Are we the Real Housewives of Clapham Common? 🖋️ siobhanbnorton
“When you drink rosé, it’s because you want to feel as if you are in the south of France,” says François Matton, co-owner of Provence’s. “You have the freshness, elegance and balance from a rosé – they are fun wines.” Fun, yes, but Matton takes winemaking incredibly seriously. The chateaux in Provence may not appear to have the same clout as counterparts in Bordeaux or Champagne, but winemaking in the region dates back 26 centuries, pre-dating France’s other major wine regions.
Château Minuty has been the wine estate of the Matton-Farnet family for more than 85 years. Its vineyards, on the hillsides of the villages of Gassin and Ramatuelle, overlooking the Gulf of Saint-Tropez, reap the benefits of the maritime climate and the South of France sunshine. And since its inception, it has built a reputation as one of the leading makers of rosé, not just in neighbouring Saint-Tropez, but around the world, selling nine million bottles in 2021 alone.
But isn’t rosé just a summer wine compared to the all-round versatility of a white or red? Yes, you want to sip it on a terrace in the sunshine, pretending you’re in Saint-Tropez when you’re actually in St Albans. But you don’t have to rule it out once the woolly jumpers have come out – more robust rosés are excellent options in the cooler months, and trendy wine lists are starting to offer more berry colours alongside the blush.
Kerambrun is partial to a rosé. “I really enjoy some rosé from the Loire Valley, Languedoc, Bordeaux and even Puglia, Greece or California, but I sincerely think that the most beautiful rosés are made in France between Marseille and Nice because of their proximity to the sea. In my own picnic bag this summer, I chose the Château de Jasson, which gives a beautiful aromatic complexity, a length in the mouth and freshness without a headache the day after.
If the sommeliers are taking rosé seriously, why haven’t I? Barbara Drew, master of wine and content officer at wine merchants Berry Bros & Rudd, sets me straight. “I think there is a greater recognition now though that rosés can be complex, they can accompany fine cuisine and they can even be aged.” Perhaps part of the trouble we have with recognising rosé as a “serious” wine is its ambiguity.
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