Before becoming a fashion academic at Westminster University, Andrew Groves ran the cult label Jimmy Jumble in early 90s London, embracing kitsch, kink and banality. Here, he talks about why he “allowed it to be chaotic”
muse Billy Boy, the store placed Jimmy Jumble in close proximity to other creatives, spurring ideas and healthy competition. Unlike designers working to a traditional fashion calendar,
Jimmy Jumble and his contemporaries would be designing for the next club night, as opposed to a fashion show“It just felt like a social club, really,” says Groves. “You would go in and spend three hours chatting with all these other people, so new projects would emerge from that.” With London Fashion Week still in its infancy, and only a few designer success stories to come from the Big Smoke, this was a time of mass unemployment, and the likes of Jimmy Jumble were designing solely for fun and a little pocket money. “I was still making stuff to sell in Sign of the Times while also helping Lee [McQueen] make stuff forwas three or four weeks’ work maybe, which means you got five months where you’re just down on Compton Street, drinking coffee and then drinking beer.
. His debut piece – a scarlet astroturf jacket dotted with daisies – quickly garnered attention in the clubs, summoning business enquiries and eventually gracing the cover of. It sounds odd, but this was a time when independent boutiques played a big part in the mainstream. Following the 80s’ rise of the stylist, the 90s saw an explosion in pop music appearances and TV channels, which meant big business for record-company stylists keen to differentiate their clients.
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