Technical hiking wear
Enamored with romantic Gothicism — John Alexander Skelton’s past runway shows have been inspired by This Mortal Coil, Neolithic landscapes and tales from BritishLooking to the Sheffield Clarion Ramblers, a socialist-rooted, 20th-century club dedicated to exploring the British countryside, always-research-mad Skelton reimagined outdoorsy wear.
“There’s one great picture of the Sheffield Clarion Ramblers where they’re wearing quite formal clothing. I thought that was interesting as a way to dress for something because now people wear very specific technical clothing, which looks, in my opinion, really ugly,” he explained. Toying with utilitarianism, rich tone-on-tone brocade silks were used to create handsome shirting and suiting with a workwear inflection. More functional fabrics, such as overdyed Japanese cotton and linen, were utilized for smart jackets and pants with flared detailing. “I thought the juxtaposition of putting utilitarian fabrics with a more flamboyant silhouette and fine fabrics cut in a more utilitarian manner was interesting,” the designer said.
Shot in Kinder Scout, one of the spots the ramblers campaigned to allow the public access to land blocked by royals and farmers, the clothes were put to the test. Models hiked through brutal British weather, pelted with freezing cold rain practically falling sideways in covetable waxed cotton trenchcoats in muddled khaki and subdued rust.
Skelton explored contrasts, paralleling his spring 2024 collection in inspiration and fall 2024 offering in style. Fabrics in pale stone, cream and black that first appeared monotonous revealed intricate, medieval-feeling floral patterns on a closer glance. Straight-leg trousers featured sumptuous details: fine hardware, horned buttons and whirling designs.Silver brooches inspired by ancient pilgrimage badges were made in collaboration with Slim Barrett.
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