Kenzo Spring 2025 Menswear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
Tonight’s Kenzo runway was a circuit of gold-painted sand that encircled the fountain inside the Palais Royal. We were barely a minute’s walk—in usual circumstances—from the Galerie Vivienne site of Nigo’s first show for the house in January 2022 . Tonight, however, was far from usual: the house had mustered a front-row that included fan-magnet Vernon of Seventeen.
During a pre-show check-in, Nigo’s translator Toby Feltwell said: “This is his sixth show. He is really enjoying the process now…he always thought that what he wanted to do was going to take at least three years to work. And he feels like he's kind of reaching the point that he wanted to get to when he started.” For the first time in that six-show tenure, Nigo decided to unravel his menswear and womenswear collections and instead show them back to back.
The menswear opened around a fine new bamboo camouflage pattern shown on a roomy trench, tropical blazer, and breaky pants. A pale green pajama suit was layered under a billowy duster coat; this look was topped by a double-brim baseball cap and a pair of the “tuned-up” rubber-soled zori sandals developed by a specialist company in Kyoto that made easy work of that golden sand.
Stitch-embroidered pale denims and utility khaki suits, new characterful patterns by Verdy on bombers and knits, and black suiting and a skirt illustrated with finely brush-stroked souvenir images of Paris followed. A laser-cut liner-profile suede jacket and matching patch-pocketed long short worn over a bamboo knit, shortly followed by an embroidered indigo denim full-look , both made for excellent ensembles.
In womenswear that bamboo camo blossomed into florals. The netting translated into crochet via vaguely atomic flower dresses and tops. And the strapping morphed into fringing that hung from floral scarf-skirts, tops, and dresses. Nico said the palette of powerful color was derived from a pad of origami paper, an inspiration further explored in the folded-edge wrap mini-dresses in cream and maroon.
Spring 2025 Menswear Runway_Review Runway
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