Dominican pop-ups and a food truck represent the cuisine, but when members of a family immigrated to North Hollywood (by way of Alaska), they envisioned a bricks-and-mortar that honors their country's cooking.
Jonathan Santana opened the sole bricks-and-mortar Dominican restaurant in the Los Angeles area last summer. He was a teenager in the 2000s, though, when he first considered that his family’s recipes might be the basis for a business. Among eight siblings, his mother, Maria , was known as the one with the golden hands at the stove. Jonathan’s friends would come over after school, expecting Machi’s flaky empanadas or fragrant stewed chicken.
Mangú con los tres golpes is a national signature for Dominicans, though; start here as an entry point. Besides, the meats deserve their own limelight, and a less scene-stealing backdrop of rice frames them perfectly. Most stem from the marinade on which Nina’s menu was also built: an infusion of lime juice, onions, garlic, oregano and other spices. I’m especially partial to Santana’s chicken, Jonathan’s renaming of the classic Dominican pollo guisado.
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