Labrum London Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
If you can chart a designer’s progress through the scale of their show venues, then Foday Dumbuya is on a trajectory to the top. From Brixton Village to the Four Seasons Hotel and now Tate Britain, where he presented his latest Labrum collection, Dumbuya is as calculated about the backdrop to his collections as he is about using fashion as an educational tool. He chose the Tate, he said, because it’s “an institution” and “the best place to tell a story about the history of migration.
Dumbuya’s oft-repeated mantra of “British tailoring; West African flair” found new focus for fall in a show about borders. “My stories all have the same pattern in terms of migration, craftsmanship,” he said, “but now we felt it was time to celebrate immigrants, what they add to society, the vibrancy they’re bringing to culture.
Cultural commentary aside, Dumbuya’s skill is in making smart silhouettes feel wearable for a generation that wants to look dapper, but not at the expense of comfort. Here, tailored suits with draped jackets were styled with slouchy pants and adidas sneakers, while bombers were given stiff collars and wide ribbed trims, paired with wide-leg pants. His casting was equally inspired: the England and Saracens rugby player Maro Itoje, whose family emigrated to Britain from Nigeria, opened the show.
That ties in with another Labrum mantra: patience. “Labrum is a 50-year plan,” Dumbuya said. “I wanna leave a legacy. In 50 years a kid from London or Sierra Leone will pick up something as a reference and think, ‘I look like him, there’s a chance I could be like him—or even be better than him.’ That’s where my mind is—I’m not really interested in the now.”
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