TOM PARKER-BOWLES looks at Wild caviar, which always came from the Black (Russian) and Caspian (Russian and Iranian) Seas.
They asked me if I fancied a bump,' said my friend, indignantly. 'And I was only ordering a bloody martini!' He had wandered into Temple Bar in downtown New York, keen to try its famed Temple House Gibson. 'It took a moment before I realised they were offering a $20 dollop of caviar on the back of my hand, rather than some dodgy Class A drug.'
Caviar works very well on the back of your hand,' says Laura King, the queen of King's and supplier of caviar to the likes of The Ritz, Fortnum & Mason and Selfridges 'It's all down to the age you have to wait for the sturgeon to produce the eggs,' explains King. 'Even for the baeri , which farms the quickest, it's a minimum of five years. The investment is huge and you lose up to 30 per cent of your initial fingerlings , which don't mature to produce eggs.'
At a particularly showy party, way back in the 1990s, there was a 10kg tin of beluga in the middle of the room. Which, at present retail prices, wouldn't get you much change from £70,000. I didn't move more than about a foot from it all night long, and found out that yes, you really can have too much of a good thing. Ridiculous excess aside, though, it's perfectly possible to find good-value, high-quality caviar, without even needing to sell the children into indentured labour.
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