A road trip through southwest Nova Scotia takes in semi-mythic lighthouses, lobster boat fleets and lively harbour towns where daily life is still defined by the ebb and flow of the Atlantic.
Peggy's Cove Lighthouse, also known as Peggy's Point Lighthouse, is one of Nova Scotia's most well-known lighthouses and may be the most photographed in Canada.As the road hooks around the southern tip of St Margarets Bay, the silhouette of Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse comes into view. The beacon surprises travellers on the coastal highway, inspiring simile with its appearances: it’s a gigantic chess piece, a wine decanter, a jack-in-the-box popping up unexpectedly at road’s end.
I’m here in late spring and the commercial lobster-fishing season is finishing up along the eastern seaboard. Nova Scotians live in an alliance with the ocean — the province produces the sweetest, most in-demand crustaceans this side of the Atlantic — and lobster pounds are as common as creaky wharves and yawning bays. It’s a nautical landscape alright. Shops sell oilskin smocks next to stalk-eyed cuddly toy shrimps and sea-themed tea towels.
“The story of Lunenburg is one of transformation, of the European farmers who immigrated here and turned to the sea for survival,” says June as we walk past old merchants’ mansions, with mansard roofs, portal windows and scalloped trims. “It became the busiest and wealthiest port in Canada because the land couldn’t sustain their needs.
About 100 miles farther along the coast past slapping sea and shell-cut beaches, Barrington, not far from Cape Sable Island, is the self-styled ‘world lobster capital’, home to a thriving fishing industry. Visitors remain a relative novelty this far south in Nova Scotia, a place of rusting boats and clapboard cabins. Every old sea dog seems to know each other, and arriving feels like walking into a Popeye the Sailor Man vignette.
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