The long read: Ramallah, my home city, has been utterly transformed during its half-century of struggle against occupation. But what has really been achieved?
It must already be 8am, I think, as I listen to the national anthem blasting out of St George’s school near my house in Ramallah. I am standing at the bathroom sink, manoeuvring the razor around the deep folds in my face that have formed over the past few years.
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