Nicolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 show was about women who used their charm as armour, manipulating men and controlling society – for whom fashion and its artifice was an essential part of their arsenal
Of course, Ghesquière wasn’t dressing courtesans, nor Proustian duchesses. Rather, his clothes were engineered for modern women and modern living, hence the movement, something he’s been focused on during his time at Vuitton. After all, trunks are made for movement – this time, they were patchworked together to form a catwalk that rose up as the first model marched her path down, lifting her skywards.
That once again was reminiscent of the past – of the 1980s, a period that Ghesquière often fondly refers to, and where the extremes of the 1890s could once again be seen. Of course, both the 1980s and 1890s were uncertain moments, balanced on the lip of the volcano, to borrow a phrase. And there was a similar feel to this Vuitton collection, a tension between opposites reflecting the state of the world.
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