My mother, the Persian cook who fed the New York art scene

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My mother, the Persian cook who fed the New York art scene
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Gallerist Leila Heller pays homage to Nahid Joon’s legendary hospitality

Leila Heller’s mother was an excellent cook. When she lived in Tehran, Empress Farah Pahlavi – one of many family friends who sampled her cooking – suggested she write a cookbook. Then the revolution happened. Nahid Taghinia-Milani, known as Nahid Joon, left Iran in 1979 and ended up in New York with her husband and children. There her cooking took on greater significance: it became a means of preserving her heritage and bringing family and friends together.

Or Thanksgiving dinner when the whole family gathered in that kitchen to cook and Nahid Joon served her Persian-style turkey with cloves and sour cherry rice. Even the simplest meal became a feast. Heller recalls her son Philip going for dinner one evening and requesting his favourite burgers only to find she had made 12. “I only know how to cook for 12.” Such was her generosity that nothing went to waste. “She wouldn’t just make a chicken thigh for herself.

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