Old-school sauces with a modern touch bring these traditional dishes to life, says Nigel Slater
I found an old photograph of myself in chef’s whites the other day. Looking awkward, holding a huge kitchen knife , smiling unconvincingly at the camera. My guess is it was taken when I had just realised a chef’s life was not for me. It had dawned on me that the strict schooling had little to do with the relaxed, everyday stuff I really wanted to cook.
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