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Karla Alonzo has become a minor celebrity in DC’s Guatemalan community. Though she left Guatemala 20 years ago right out of high school—she says she never felt free there because of homophobia—the chef has been embraced by her home country.
After the separation, Alonzo fell into a depression. Her heart wasn’t in her work anymore, she says, and ownership of Nim Ali briefly became contentious with Guzman. She began planning to close the business and quit her other kitchen job at Jake’s Tavern to start a new life doing something else. That was a turning point. Alonzo decided to keep Nim Ali alive, and after one of her employees had a chance conversation with the landlord of a building two doors down from Jake’s Tavern, she got the opportunity to rent the Seventh Street storefront. To gather the funds, she and her siblings forfeited the annual vacation they often take to Florida.
Those include pepián de gallina, which Alonzo compared to Guatemala’s version of mole: an aromatic, cinnamon-colored sauce made with pumpkin seeds, various chiles, spices, sesame seeds, tomatoes, and tomatillos. It’s served over a slow-cooked chicken leg with a side of rice and plain tamales, perfect for soaking up the sauce.
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