If a UNESCO World Heritage Site is erased by a million tons of ice and there’s no one around to see it, what does it mean?
The Forty Mile historic townsite at the confluence of the Fortymile and Yukon rivers near the Alaska-Yukon border is inundated by ice and floodwater on May 11, 2023. “How gone are we talking?” I asked.
Until we saw Forty Mile, the disconnect between much of the Yukon River and modern life had been one of the best parts of the trip. In a time where technology is omnipresent and push notifications are almost inescapable, we hadn’t had a data connection for more than a few hours since we’d launched in Whitehorse.
When we reached the town of Circle at the end of the Steese Highway in the Interior, we messaged my family in Fairbanks to let them know we made it and piled our gear up on shore, a stone’s throw away from a half-dozen houses that had been pushed off their foundations by the ice before coming to rest in a nearby stand of trees.
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