Our food critic’s 5 favorite spots right now: Afghan, Indian, Italian

Tom Sietsema’s of-the-moment restaurant recommendations include new restaurants in Georgetown, Bethesda and D.C.’s Mount Pleasant.

One of the great things about Washington is the ability to pretty much eat your way around the world without boarding a plane.

Designed by the owner’s brother, Mustafa, who also serves as general manager, Afghania strikes a handsome pose with dark walls, linen-draped tables, plush chairs and a small bar. The pictures of long-ago kings and faraway landscapes are a reflection of the family’s push to open in March: “AI art” was the most expedient route, says Omar.Named for one of the seven famed hills in the Eternal City, Aventino revels in Roman traditions.

A visit on a Sunday found a mash of eggplant speckled with mustard seeds, chopped okra in spicy tomato sauce, creamy paneer, hearty chickpea curry, spiced spinach kebabs and lacy onion fritters arranged in a circle with cumin-scented rice, shards of crackery papadum, cucumber salad, bright mint chutney, mouth-puckering pickles and desserts including syrup-soaked doughnut holes. Did I miss something? The thali called Purani Dilli , also offered on Thursday, is a lot to absorb.

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