A sort-of-Japanese restaurant, from the team behind P Franco and Bright, that seems guaranteed to spawn copycats very soon
That tofu is exquisite, by the way, some of the best I’ve ever tasted. Thick cubes topped with an irresistible nori mush, crisp on the surface, smooth and yielding below, almost like sweet potato. It came with feathery tempura oyster mushrooms and a bowl of fragrant dashi. I accept that “exquisite tofu” will be an oxymoron to some; my brother refuses to touch the stuff, so convinced is he that it’s some sort of culinary aberration grown in chef’s armpits.
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